Enormocast Rebroadcast: Episode 93: Armando Menocal – The Peaceful Climbing Warrior

As we stare down into the howling void of Government regulation of our dear sport, let us give thanks and a listen to Armando Menocal from 2015. Armando has made it his life’s work to keep the simpering bureaucrats in Washington and elsewhere at bay. But lately, they have reared their heads in an attempt to prohibit fixed anchors on some of our most cherished cliffs, including El Capitan. In this rebroadcast, we find out how Armando used climbing to blow off steam from his day job as a human rights lawyer stemming all the way back to the anti-war movement in 1969. Armando went on to work for the AAC, found the Access Fund, become an Exum Guide, and develop climbing in Cuba. Armando is now developing a Pan American access organization, Access PanAm. Trying to have a good time, all the time, Armando still never seems to stop giving back to the climbing community he cherishes.

Live by Armando’s example and get your voice heard by sending in your comments to the NPS and USFS an their new regulations here.

Enormocast 277: Kurt Smith – The Iconoclast

Photos: Potrero Chico by Corey Rich, Independence Pass by Rick Lovelace, Donner Summit by John Bachar

On Episode 277 of the Enormocast, we connect with the inimitable Kurt Smith. Kurt grew up in the 70s in Tahoe and through friendships with local climbers like Rick Lovelace and encounters with Yosemite Climber, Kurt found himself in Joshua Tree amongst the Stonemasters in the early 80s. Soon, Kurt and his crew were making waves right behind John Bachar and Ron Kauk in the Valley and J-Tree. After a stint as Bachar’s sideman and eventually close friend, an injury forced Kurt to reckon with his tradster roots and become a true sport climber – developing such areas as Clear Creek Canyon and Rifle. But one or two world class areas weren’t enough for Kurt, and he went on to put Potrero Chico on the map before being run out under shady circumstances. Kurt ranks up amongst the best and most influential climbers of all time, and his career spanned more styles and decades than almost any body before or since. And boy, can he tell a story!

Kurt on Midnight Lightning circa 1984

Enormocast Tweener: A Candid Ascent of Trango Tower with Jordan Cannon, Jesse Huey, and Matt Segal [Part 2]

When we left the boys in the last Episode, they had just summited the Trango Tower via the 2nd ascent of Cowboy Direct. In this installment, the summit emotions and revelations come fast and furious as well as the realization that hits every alpinist on the summit: “Oh, shit, we still gotta get off this MF!”. Spoiler: the guys get down safely but the grind doesn’t stop at basecamp. Finally, the spa in Islamabad was the perfect ending to an outrageous trip for Jordan, Jesse, and Matt.

SERIOUSLY, DON’T BE SOME SORT OF BARBARIAN! GO BACK AND LISTEN TO EPISODE 276

Instagrams: Jordan Jesse Matt

Matt on Youtube