Posts

Posted on

Enormocast 274: Roger Schaeli – In The Shadow of the Eiger

Subscribe

On Episode 274 of the Enormocast, I connect over the Atlantic with Swiss alpinist, guide, and Eiger North Face aficionado, Roger Schaeli. Roger was born directly in the Swiss alps and learned to climb at an early age with his father. Surrounded by deep Swiss climbing culture, an early accident did not deter Roger, rather it inspired him to be humble and careful in the mountains. The European media calls him “Mr. Eiger”, and though he finds that annoying, the nickname is not without its merit. Roger has climbed the North Face of the Eiger well-over 50 times, and he and his partners have opened some of the most difficult, committing, and best free climbs on the face. But Roger’s career encompasses much more than just the Eiger North Face. His exploits in Patagonia are legendary, and his expeditions span the globe. But whether in the big mountains or at the sport crag, good partners and having “fun” still reigns supreme.

Roger’s Instagram

Roger’s Website

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

Subscribe: RSS

Posted on

Enormocast 273: Brette Harrington – Keeper of the Flame

Photos: Drew Smith, Mathis Dumas, Elliot Bernhagen
Subscribe

On Episode 273 of the Enormocast, I reconnect with Brette Harrington who appeared on the Enormocast in 2016. Just after that first appearance, Brette and Mayan Smith-Gobat left for an audacious attempt on free climbing Riders on the Storm on Torre Central on the Torres de Paine massif. Even though they failed in their ultimate objective to free the route, that climb set the stage for Brette to burst onto the alpine climbing scene. Her partnership with Marc-André Leclerc introduced her to Canadian Rockies climbing and her fate was set. Then when Marc-André was lost on a climb in Alaska, Brette grieved by setting out on a two year tear through alpinism, establishing hard routes from Canada to Patagonia. Now, Brette has established herself as force in alpine climbing, rock climbing, and big mountain skiing. She won’t ever forget her love and learning from Marc-André, but Brette is going forward in a life of light and new goals.

Brette on Instagram

Ascent Climbing Trips

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

Subscribe: RSS

Posted on

Enormocast 272: Connor Herson – Deeds of Youth

All Photos Christian Adam
Subscribe

On Episode 272 of the Enormocast, I connect with young trad-phenom, Connor Herson. Connor first burst into climbing’s collective consciousness with the 6th free ascent of the Nose at the tender age of 15. Connor had already climbed 14 5.14s by the age of 14 (say that ten times fast), and he went on to collect 50 by the age of 18. His resume includes two youth national lead titles and a few 5.14 first ascents. Most recently, Connor swept into Squamish and nabbed repeats of some of the hardest routes in the area. Connor credits his family’s connection to climbing with much of his success – his dad Jim was a hot Yosemite climber in his day, his mom is a tireless supporter and belayer, and his sister Kara was a successful youth climber. Mix that pedigree with a boatload of talent and you get a singular climber: Connor Herson.

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

Subscribe: RSS