Posted on

Enormocast 229: Steve “Shipoopoi” Schneider – Blonde Ambition

On Episode 229 of the Enormocast, Steve Schneider joins me from his home in Oakland, California. Though Steve’s resume is longer than almost any previous guest on the show, he seems to fly in the nether regions of the global climbing consciousness. Steve became a YOSAR member and Valley denizen in the early 80s and never looked back. Under the tutelage of John Bachar, Steve racked up hard free pitches all over Yosemite, El Cap, and Tuolumne Meadows including what was likely the first 5.14 in Tuolumne. Then he turned his sights in Patagonia with audacious routes and solos in the Paine region. Also a pioneer speed climber, Steve did the first one day solo of El Cap and was the first to do three El Cap routes in a day with Hans Florine. Not done yet, Steve continues to seek out new-for-him ground on El Cap whenever he can. In his 60s, he’s still the most psyched and restless climber around.

Play

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

Subscribe: RSS

Posted on

Enormocast 228: Aaron Livingston – We Shall Be Brothers

Clockwise from top left: Spaceshot by Nolan Smythe, Aaron Livingston by Drew Smith, Aaron on Mt Hooker by Drew Smith

On Episode 228 of the Enormocast, I sit down with climber and guide, Aaron Livingston. A Utah native, Aaron splits his time between Ouray, Colorado and Moab, Utah while guiding for San Juan Mountain Guides. While we get to know Aaron in the first half of the interview, his purpose for coming in the show was to talk about his friend Nolan Smythe. Nolan was killed on El Gigante in Chihuahua, MX while climbing with Aaron. The two came up in climbing together and Aaron considered him a brother. The tale of their partnership is both inspiring and tragic, but in the end, Aaron caries Nolan’s flame as he continues to realize adventures that they had once dreamt of together.

Play

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

Subscribe: RSS

Posted on

Enormocast 227: Jordan Cannon – The Full Picture

A5 Traverse Golden Gate, After the send afterglow, Peace. All Photos: Max Buschini

On Episode 227 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a van (his) in Rifle with return guest Jordan Cannon. Jordan’s career continues to flourish since his last appearance on the Enormocast with Mark Hudon and his first appearance back in 2018. The main topic on the table is Jordan’s saga with freeing Golden Gate on El Cap including his one day free ascent last year. We also talk about being a professional climber, Jordan’s evolving relationship with is mentor and best friend Mark, and finally, his recent coming out as gay and how that public revelation has changed his life. Jordan seems to represent a lot of what’s great and noble about climbing and its always fun to hear from him.

Play

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

Subscribe: RSS