Episode 132: Live from 5Point Film Festival- Climbing Films.

On Episode 132 of the Enormocast, we’ve gathered a panel at the 5Point Film Festival to record a live discussion of climbing films. In the elements on a cold April day, the panel digs deep into film making, curating, watching, and enjoying.

Dave O’Leske recently released Dirtbag: The Legend of Fred Beckey, a doc about everyone’s favorite climbing nonagenarian.

Eric Becker dropped a climbing short this spring called A Higher Crawling, and has a film in the works about the Whittaker clan.

Aisha Weinhold created and curates the No Man’s Land Film Festival, a festival devoted to promoting women adventurers and filmmakers.

Climber Ben Yardley is Advertising Sales Manager at Rock and Ice Magazine, and as such, sees piles of video submissions for rockandice.com.

A few of the other films mentioned:

 

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Episode 131: Hansjörg Auer – Finding the Moment.

Photos: Damiano Levati, Elias Holzknecht, Heiko Wilhelm

On Episode 131 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Austrian climber, Hansjörg Auer. Hans somewhat reluctantly blasted onto the European climbing scene 10 years ago with an audacious free solo ascent of il Pesce (The Fish) on the Marmolada in the Dolomites of Northern Italy.  Before and since that day, Hans has continued to throw down hard, traditional ascents world wide. He has endeavored to be that rare all-arounder: big routes, trad, sport, and even wild faces on Himalayan peaks- Hans pushes his limits in all of those disciplines. But first and foremost, Hansjörg is steeped in ground-up tradition and hoping to inspire the younger generation towards that attitude of adventure and respect.

A Young Hansjörg Auer reflects on his free solo of il Pesce (12c).

Hansjörg in Alaska and reflecting on the death of his friend. 

Auer’s new route in the Black posted at his website.

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Episode 130- Jacopo Larcher – So Many Routes, So Many Dreams

All Photos: François Lebeau

On Episode 130, I sit down with Italian rock climber, Jacopo Larcher. We caught up while both in Spain and climbing at Siurana. Jacopo was on a mission to climb La Rambla (9a), which he did, and I was on a mission to pull off the first international trip with the Enormobaby, which we did. Jacopo, along with his special-lady-friend Babsi Zangerl, has been blazing the world in the last couple years free climbing big routes, big walls, hard trad, and hard sport. If its rock, he will climb it, and climb it well.

Cool Video about Jacopo’s crack apprenticeship.

Jacopo’s Website (remarkably updated!)

 

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Episode 129: Steve Swenson – Almost an Astronaut.

On Episode 129 of the Enormocast, I sit down with consummate alpinist, Steve Swensen. Steve’s career in the big mountains has spanned decades. As a kid, Steve dreamed of flying to the stars as an Apollo astronaut, but he chose to climb as close to space as possible instead. While he has climbed worldwide, his most memorable and mesmerizing locale is the Karakorum on the borders of Pakistan, China, and India. In his new book Karakorum: Climbing through the Kashmir ConflictSteve recounts his years exploring the mountains of this formerly closed region and falling in love with its people but also watching the waves of conflict ebb and flow in the surrounding lands. Steve spent 40 years balancing on the three pillars of his radical life: climbing, career, and family, and somehow he is as stoked as ever to be in the mountains and pushing his mind and body to the highest reaches of the Earth.

Karakorum: Climbing through the Kashmir Conflict

 

 

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Episode 128: Live from Devils Lake Craggin’ Classic

On Episode 128, I dig back in the archives for a live show recorded last year at the American Alpine Club’s Craggin’ Classic in Devils Lake, WI. One rainy, soggy, muddy night, three guest joined me for a panel discussion on the colorful history of the upper Midwest’s most storied cliff. Guidebook author Jay Knower, guide James Schroeder, and boulderer and Boulders Climbing Gym manager Katie Schultz talk history, grades, the infamous DLFA and more. Good times under a tent and a cloudy sky in the North Woods. As the climbing season in Wisco gets rolling, let deez guys get youz guys psyched for the Lake!

Jay’s New Devils Lake Guide

Devils Lake Climbing Guides

Boulders Climbing Gym, Madison, WI

More Legends of the DLFA

Get Involved with the Wisconsin Climber’s Association

2017 Craggin Classics including DL Oct 13-15.

 

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