On Episode 199 of the Enormocast, my coach, Kris Hampton, and I talk about what its been like to try and train a crusty curmudgeon like me. Since adulting hit me hard in the last couple years and Carbondale got its first real climbing gym, I came up with a plan to actually train for real after 30 years of climbing. Kris was a bit ambivalent, but once I showed my commitment, he turned the considerable resources at Power Company Climbing toward turning me into a MACHINE. In this episode of the Enormocast, we discuss the ups and downs of coming to training from a climbing life of mostly ignoring a set physical program in lieu of “just going climbing”. Hopefully, we inspire those of you simply dabbling with your hangboard or even if you are just threatening to be a threat in the gym. And if you already train like a fiend, maybe you’ll get a good chuckle at my puny efforts.
On Episode 198 of the Enormocast, I sit down in Ouray, Colorado on a too bright Sunday morning with British alpinist, Tom Livingstone. Tom was born in the climbing desert of southern England, but now bases out of the climbing Mecca of North Wales. A traditional rock climber at first, Tom has made a name for himself climbing adventurous peaks in the Karakorum including completing the long sought after first ascent of the North side of Latok 1. Tom’s hyper-motivated and fun-loving attitude belies the fact that he is also tough as nails and willing to pitch himself at audacious unclimbed faces with style. And, of course, this show is a true lesson in the Queen’s English.
On Episode 197 of the Enormocast, I sit down with former champion comp climber, Katie Brown. Katie Brown inhabited a place in competition climbing in the 90s when the kids took over the sport. Her cohort, the likes of Chris Sharma, Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden, were the first wave of young competitors to put the adults on notice that the comps were about to change drastically. Katie was also a visionary onsight climber bagging an a vue ascent of Omaha Beach in the Red (.14a, then .13d just after Katie sent, now .14a again) and Hydrophobia in Montsant, Catalunya (.14a, then downgraded to .13d, now .14a again). But the untold story of Katie’s comp years is the family strife and eating disorders and confusion that plagued her short, meteoric career. Now a mom, wife, and just finding climbing again, Katie is ready to reveal her trauma in the hopes that the current generation of comp climbers can learn from her difficult path.