On Episode 164 of the Enormocast, I sit down with CLIMB!ing legend, Jamie Logan. Logan was one of a handful of climbers in 1970s era Boulder, CO redefining what climbing would look like in the coming decades: from resetting free-climbing standards to imagining new difficulty and new styles in the alpine. After climbing a visionary route on the Emperor Face on Canada’s Mount Robson, “Jim” Logan walked away from hard climbing to focus on family and career. 30 years later, another transition would recreate his life as the woman Jamie Logan has become. “Jim” Logan had always felt out of sorts in his gender and skin, and now in her 60s, Jamie Logan has emerged as a advocate for LGBT people and for climbers facing their own fears about identity and fitting in.
On Episode 163 of the Enormocast, I sit down in an RV in the Supercrack parking lot with wellness coach, Blake Cason. Blake, through her business Pivot Integrative Wellness, helps people achieve wellness through mindfulness and radical honesty. Blake has turned her knowledge to climbing specific habits and behaviors in an effort to help climbers integrate their passion into their full lives in a healthy way. In this talk, Blake tries to chip away some of my crustiness and reveal my inner training fiend. Not sure if we got that deep, but we had a good talk, and I came away at least thinking about my performance and attitudes in a different way.
On Episode 162 of the Enormocast, I sit down with visually impaired climber, Justin Salas. Hailing from the unlikely climbing locale of Tulsa, Oklahoma, Justin started losing his sight to an unidentified syndrome while a teenager. The first thing to be abandoned was his passion for BMX, then depression set in. Luckily, a friend got him on his bike again, and Justin began hucking tricks and riding around town with his buddy as a “seeing eye person” on a bike. Not long after, Justin was introduced to climbing and never looked back, pun intended. Since that intro, he’s climbed V11 and won his category at the World Championships in Innsbruck. What Justin lost in eyesight, he’s makes up for in vision of what a visually impaired athlete can accomplish.