On Episode 263 of the Enormocast, I sit down for a long overdue conversation with one of the greatest alpinists of all time, Steve House. Steve house spent 20 years riding the cutting edge of alpinism. His ascents of K7, The Rupal Face, and the Slovak Direct, among many more, represented a sea change in the world of highly technical big mountain climbing. But all that time strung out to the max took its toll, and finally an accident on Mount Temple in the Canadian Rockies signaled the beginning of the end for Steve’s climbing aspirations. Steve cowrote the lauded book Training for the New Alpinism and now heads Uphill Athlete and coaches aspiring mountaineers the world over. He is also a dad and husband. After all these years on the edge, Steve put the work in daily to keep life simple, free, and filled with love.
On Episode 206, we get down to climbing talk and climbing stories with Andres Marin. Andres was born and grew up in the mountains of Colombia, but immigrated to the US as a young man. Ending up in Grand Junction, Colorado, Andres was quickly drawn to the climbing opportunities in his back yard. Soon, he found himself guiding Mt. Rainier over and over and over (and over) again. Finally, he wound up as a consummate guide in Ouray, Colorado and then on the North Face team. Andres has been drawn to all forms of climbing, with alpinism and ice climbing being his bread and butter. First ascents world wide dot his resume amid years of desert climbing and technical Rocky Mountain ice. Good for a laugh and a crazy story, Andres Marin is the kind of climber you want at your campfire.
On Episode 198 of the Enormocast, I sit down in Ouray, Colorado on a too bright Sunday morning with British alpinist, Tom Livingstone. Tom was born in the climbing desert of southern England, but now bases out of the climbing Mecca of North Wales. A traditional rock climber at first, Tom has made a name for himself climbing adventurous peaks in the Karakorum including completing the long sought after first ascent of the North side of Latok 1. Tom’s hyper-motivated and fun-loving attitude belies the fact that he is also tough as nails and willing to pitch himself at audacious unclimbed faces with style. And, of course, this show is a true lesson in the Queen’s English.