On Episode 152 of the Enormocast, I met up with ice-climber, rock-climber, guide, and gym-owner, Janet Wilkinson, in her breakfast nook in New Hampshire. Janet came up in climbing when female trad-climbers and guides were still few and far between and cut her teeth with the boys. But in search of lady partners, she made life long friends with the likes of Sarah Garlick. Janet does not consider herself an alpinist, but anybody else looking at her resume in Patagonia and beyond certainly would. For now, as a mother, she’s happy at her local crags in New Hampshire, but she is always threatening to be a threat again in the greater ranges.
On Episode 149 of the Enormocast, I sit down in the Wilkinson Family “Shabin” (shed that became a cabin) with the alpinist and author, Freddie Wilkinson. Freddie is known throughout the land as a super capable and stoked partner, but he’s also got his finger in the pie of many climbing related endeavors besides sending the gnar: writing, films, guiding, and owning a rock gym . Though he’s climbed worldwide, his heart is still right there in the Northeast and the White Mountains. A bit of a journeyman in many disciplines, he’s also added husband and father to his resume in the last few years.
On Episode 147 of the Enormocast, I sit down with current American Alpine Club CEO, Phil Powers. Phil cut his climbing teeth as an instructor at NOLS, and went on to combine a deep personal climbing resumé with guiding and instruction across the US and the world. At the helm of the AAC, Phil has tried to guide the club back to relevancy and broaden its base to include old-timey mountaineers and sneering boulderers alike. As a former NOLS instructor, a guide throughout the US, owner of Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, and spearheading the AAC‘s education component, Phil reckons he’s taught thousands to not only climb, but cherish the places that all climbers love.
On Episode 144 of the Enormocast, I sit down at the Ouray ice festival with ice climbing dark horse, Rapheal Slawinski. While a total legend in his backyard of the Canadian Rockies, Raph is maybe not quite the household name of his compatriot, Will Gadd. Yet, he has been on the forefront of ice climbing, dry-tooling, and big mountain climbing for over 20 years, receiving a Piolet D’or in 2014 for his and Ian Welsted’s ascent of K6 West in the Karokorum of Pakistan. Part affable Polish Canadian, part precision machine, Raphael found his calling scraping away at ice on rock in the Canadian Rockies and beyond.
On Episode 139 of the Enormocast, I sit down with mountain runner, or running explorer, or climber runner, or just plain runner, Joe Grant. Joe and I connected at a fundraising event for the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance in Salt Lake City, and while Joe was telling me about his running passion and long distance jones, I said, “Stop! Do you want to do this on an Enormocast?!” Luckily, Joe said yes, and here we are. I try and mine Joe for the secrets of mile 80, when the legs are done, the joints hurt, the mind is cracking and the runner keeps going. How do you do it, Joe? I’m not sure we get the magic bullet, but Joe’s insights do illuminate the drive we have in the mountains, on long routes, and big days. Joe also tells the story of his human powered expedition to climb all the Colorado 14ers. Ironically, Joe remains in awe of hard climbing while we will remain in awe of him.