Enormocast 328: Matt Cornell – The Right Reasons

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On Episode 328 of the Enormocast, we sit down with alpinist and Michigander, Matt Cornell. That’s right, one of the world’s best alpinists grew up in the mountain-less upper Midwest dreaming of vertical playgrounds beyond his home State’s borders. Despite the pressures of modern suburban expectations, Matt moved into his hatchback and become a climbing bum post high school. But it was a suggestion of a mentor that convinced Matt to move to Bozeman and become an ice climber. After a season or two of bumbling his way into the hard-nose and hard-knock scene in Hyalite Canyon, Matt’s fuse was lit and the greater ranges beckoned. An epic or two later, Matt’s burgeoning skills finally started to knab him first ascents and coalesced a crew of like minded climbers around Cornell. Epically, but not finally, Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau did what some would say is the finest alpine style ascent of all time on the North Face of Jannu in 2023.

Enormocast 321: Katie McKinstry Stylos – Reaching Further

Photos: Joe Stylos, Joe Stylos, Cooper Shuman
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On Episode 321 of the Enormocast, I sit down at the Michigan Ice Fest with dry tooling maven, Katie McKinstry Stylos. Katie spent her entire youth as a “horse girl”: training horses, caring for horses, and competing. But when she lost her beloved horse to complications of an injury, her enthusiasm was dashed and burnout set in. Katie had started to gym climb simply as a way to take a break from all things horse, but it was a memory of a day of ice climbing near Boise, ID that would set her path to her next obsession: dry tooling. In the years since, and under the tutelage of Kevin Lindlau, Katie has emerged as one of the world’s best sport dry toolers. Pilgrimages to the late Tom Ballard‘s dry tooling mecca Tomorrow’s World has racked up some records for Katie including her becoming the first woman to climb D15+/D16 on the route Parallel World. Along with Katie’s dramatic story, this ep is ripe with terms, secret beta, and rivalries that introduce us to the enigma wrapped in a mystery that is dry tooling.

Enormocast 225: Manoah Ainuu – Life’s Sustenance

On Episode 225 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a yard with goats with ice climber, Manoah Ainuu. Manoah popped up on a lot of climbers’ radars in the film Black Ice from last year’s Reel Rock, but he’s been a North Face Athlete for 3 years and getting it done in Bozeman for longer. As a brown-skin climber and sporting long dreads, Manoah knows that he stands out in the ice climbing world, but that’s fine with him. His participation is his own statement about diversity. Above all, Manoah is trying to find a life balance that is a bit against the grain in the world of hard climbing and 20 something men: family, health, spirituality, climbing, in that order.