Enormocast 306: Sarah Hueniken – The Aftermath

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On Episode 206 of the Enormocast, I sit down at Banff Mountain Film with alpinist and guide, Sarah Hueniken. Sarah was an outdoor educator before she was a climber, and though she is known for ice climbing and dry tooling, she was a rock climber first. She even found Canmore, Alberta a little bleak and cold for her taste. Nevertheless, Sarah eventually set up shop in Canmore and pursued guiding as her career choice and first love. Almost as an afterthought to that pursuit, she became an accomplished alpinist in her own right and took to the emerging disciplines of mixed climbing and dry tooling. She became the first North American woman to climb M11-M14. But then, well into her advanced guiding career, a terrible incident occurred during an ice-climbing camp under her direction in 2019. An avalanche swept over a a guided group at Massey’s Waterfall and buried and killed Sonja Findlater. In the aftermath of that incident, Sarah found herself wallowing in guilt and trauma and the loss of her friend. Finally, she emerged from her despair to rejoin the climbing community, start guiding again, and form the Mountain Muskox organization to see others through the trauma of mountain accidents.

Sarah On Fire

Sarah’s Guiding Website

Massey’s Incident Guide Report

Not Alone by Heather Mosher

Enormocast 210: Jason Nelson – A Life’s Work.

On Episode 210 of the Enormocast, we journey into the impossibly distant past of a year ago for an interview recorded in the pre-pandemic bliss of January 2020 with climber, guidebook author, and artist, Jason Nelson. Jason hails from Maine, but is most associated with the small town with big climbing aspirations: Ouray, Colorado. As a developer of rock climbing, ice climbing, and dry-tooling routes, Jason is a triple threat new route hound. One of his more controversial and now popular contributions is the infamous Hall of Justice cave where only dry-toolers need apply. Jason fills us in on the dark arts of dry tool choss development. Finally, Jason is the author of two guidebooks, Climbs of the Million Dollar Highway and Suffer Candy Volume One, as well as the soon to be revealed Suffer Candy Volume 2. Stick around the interview for an update from the present.

Episode 144: Raphael Slawinski – Control Within the Chaos.

Photographers (clockwise from upper left): Daniel Bartsch, Pierre Darbellay, Wiktor Skupinski.

On Episode 144 of the Enormocast, I sit down at the Ouray ice festival with ice climbing dark horse, Rapheal Slawinski. While a total legend in his backyard of the Canadian Rockies, Raph is maybe not quite the household name of his compatriot, Will Gadd. Yet, he has been on the forefront of ice climbing, dry-tooling, and big mountain climbing for over 20 years, receiving a Piolet D’or in 2014 for his and Ian Welsted’s ascent of K6 West in the Karokorum of Pakistan. Part affable Polish Canadian, part precision machine, Raphael found his calling scraping away at ice on rock in the Canadian Rockies and beyond.

Raphael’s Remarkably Current Blog.