Enormocast 298: Jim Erickson – Clean and Free in the 1970s

On Episode 298 of the Enormocast, I sit down in with Boulder, Colorado legend, Jim Erickson. Turns out that when Jim climbed the crags and roamed the streets of Boulder in the late 60s and 70s, it was a cow-town – not the bougie climbing mecca we love to hate on today. Erickson grew up climbing at Devil’s Lake, Wisconsin, but was looking for a college experience with close-by climbing and ended up out west. Quickly, he established himself as the most psyched climber of the small community and was raging through Eldo in no time. Jim’s free ascent of the Naked Edge with Duncan Ferguson in 1971 put him on the top of the heap worldwide. But just months later, Jim embraced clean climbing and embarked on a sending spree that went a very long way to evangelize for using removable rock-friendly nuts exclusively. Jim’s ethics evolved to eschew chalk and several other modern conveniences, yet he nearly sent Half-Dome free in 1976 with Art Higbee. This ascent and many others established Jim as one of the best and unique free climbers of all time.

Free Climb: The Northwest Face of Half Dome, Jim Erickson and Art Higbee scale Half Dome