Tag: Trad climbing

Posted on

Enormocast 315: Kate Kelleghan – Turbocharged Life

Photos: Abbey Bergh, Kate Kelleghan, Julien Scherliss, James Lucas

On Episode 315 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Boulder-born Yosemite-trained speed climbing maestra, Kate Kelleghan. Kate came to climbing at 20 despite, or maye TO spite, her climbing dad. A youth of dark eye make-up, music, art, and smoke-sessions behind the school finally gave way to a life of climbing adventure when dad took Kate up the 3rd Flatiron as a teen. Then, as was her way, she leapt into the deep end and became a CLIMBER, eventually moving through the gym to finding trad climbing on the cliffs above Boulder like Castle Rock and Eldo. Then she fell into the quirky world of the Naked Edge speed games eventually creating, setting, then breaking her own women’s speed record. Eventually, Yosemite pulled her further west where bigwall speed climbing was her future. This path culminated (for now) when Kate and Laura Pineau became the only women (so far) to ever complete the Yosemite Triple: Half Dome, El Capitan, and Watkins in a day.

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

Subscribe: Spotify | RSS

Posted on

Enormocast Tweener: Matilda Söderlund Live in Squamish

Photos: Bill Hamilton
Subscribe

On this Tweener Enormocast, we rebroadcast a live interview with Swedish climber Matilda Söderlund captured in front of a smart well-dressed audience at the Arc’teryx Academy in Squamish, BC. Matilda has become a bright star of Swedish climbing progressing from a tween competitor to hot shot sport climber, big route climber, trad climber, and gyn owner. She’s climbed 9a, complete the first all female ascent of Rayu 8c, and fearsome E8 in trad. Her gym Moumo was the first in Stockholm and is a hub for outreach to women climbers. Listeners may remember mentions of Matilda’s prowess on the rock in Episode 309 with Anna Hazlenutt.

Matilda’s Website

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

Subscribe: Spotify | RSS

Posted on

Enormocast Tweener: Didier Berthod – Facing the World (Part 2)

Photos: Fred Moix, Thomasina Pidgeon, Pim Shaitosa
Subscribe

In the early 2000s, Didier Berthod was the best crack climber in the world, then he dropped out of climbing and essentially disappeared from the world.

When we left Didier Berthod in Facing the World Part 1, he had emerged from monastic life, contacted the daughter he had never seen, and returned to climbing. In this episode, Didier is back in Squamish climbing hard again. But he is also facing the music with his former partner (the mother of his child), the climbing community, and his abandoned daughter. Find out where Didier sits in his return to the world in this second part of his story.

Also, we get the story of Didier’s historic return to Cobra Crack, the FA of Crack of Destiny, and more on his return to form in climbing.

Jesus is a Friend of Mine by Sonseed

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

Subscribe: Spotify | RSS