Enormocast 278: Thomas Bukowski – A Funny Little Life

Photos: Alison Hathaway, Brian Knowles, Jonathan Adam Guy

On Episode 278 of the Enormocast, I connect with Thomas Bukowski from my home to his van sitting in Yosemite. Thomas had just completed three El Cap routes in three days, and was recovering. His next adventures in Patagonia were just on the horizon. Thomas is an American citizen, but is also half Chinese and grew up in Hong Kong. Decidedly a little too squirrelly for regimented Hong Kong schooling, Thomas eventually found himself in boarding school in Norway where he learned to climb. His climbing aspirations were interrupted for a time when one morning he woke up and realized he was gay. Like, for real gay, and he made the move to San Francisco to explore what that meant. But the path couldn’t diverge for long, and soon he was at the gym, then at Yosemite, and then living in his van pursuing a guiding career and climbing career. Now Thomas, AKA Neodude, spends his time pursuing his own goals, but also representing for the gay community and reaching out to bring the chance to climb to underserved communities.

North Face Athlete Development Program

Enormocast Rebroadcast: Episode 93: Armando Menocal – The Peaceful Climbing Warrior

As we stare down into the howling void of Government regulation of our dear sport, let us give thanks and a listen to Armando Menocal from 2015. Armando has made it his life’s work to keep the simpering bureaucrats in Washington and elsewhere at bay. But lately, they have reared their heads in an attempt to prohibit fixed anchors on some of our most cherished cliffs, including El Capitan. In this rebroadcast, we find out how Armando used climbing to blow off steam from his day job as a human rights lawyer stemming all the way back to the anti-war movement in 1969. Armando went on to work for the AAC, found the Access Fund, become an Exum Guide, and develop climbing in Cuba. Armando is now developing a Pan American access organization, Access PanAm. Trying to have a good time, all the time, Armando still never seems to stop giving back to the climbing community he cherishes.

Live by Armando’s example and get your voice heard by sending in your comments to the NPS and USFS an their new regulations here.

Enormocast 277: Kurt Smith – The Iconoclast

Photos: Potrero Chico by Corey Rich, Independence Pass by Rick Lovelace, Donner Summit by John Bachar

On Episode 277 of the Enormocast, we connect with the inimitable Kurt Smith. Kurt grew up in the 70s in Tahoe and through friendships with local climbers like Rick Lovelace and encounters with Yosemite Climber, Kurt found himself in Joshua Tree amongst the Stonemasters in the early 80s. Soon, Kurt and his crew were making waves right behind John Bachar and Ron Kauk in the Valley and J-Tree. After a stint as Bachar’s sideman and eventually close friend, an injury forced Kurt to reckon with his tradster roots and become a true sport climber – developing such areas as Clear Creek Canyon and Rifle. But one or two world class areas weren’t enough for Kurt, and he went on to put Potrero Chico on the map before being run out under shady circumstances. Kurt ranks up amongst the best and most influential climbers of all time, and his career spanned more styles and decades than almost any body before or since. And boy, can he tell a story!

Kurt on Midnight Lightning circa 1984