On episode 242 of the Enormocast, I run with one of the big dogs of the 80s, Scott Franklin. Scott was a prodigy shaking up the Gunks and the old ways in the early 80s. He then dropped the taboos against hang-dogging, bolting, top down inspection, and helped usher in the sport climbing revolution we still embrace to this day. But he’s no one trick pony, before he did the 2nd ascent and first American ascent of To Bolt or Not to Be (5.14a), he had cut his teeth as a trad master and a soloist. So when the establishment freaked out about wimpy “sportos”, Franklin was able to walk the walk with the trad dads while espousing the virtues of athletic bolted climbing. Once labelled enemy #1 by the old guard, Scott’s reputation has mellowed after raising a family, becoming and entrepreneur at Franklin Climbing and then Lumos Solar, and still climbing after all these years.
On Episode 241, I connect with climber and author, Jonathan Howland. Jonathan started climbing in the early 70s and spent much of that decade obsessed with the pursuit. Then a 20 year hiatus ensued, but Jonathan returned to the climbing-fold with a similar passion but a new outlook. Then tragedy hit, and as can often be the case, so did a dark muse. The result is Jonathan’s first published novel, Native Air. The narrative in Native Air is based on characters living and climbing on the East Side of the Sierra in the 80s. However, the themes in Native Air are endowed with loss, friendship, family, and whether or not climbing can stand up to the weight of meaning we frequently heap upon it. Jonathan’s insight into the heart of why we climb is riveting.
On Episode 240 of the Enormocast, I am joined by Maiza Lima. Maiza resides, more or less, in Great Falls, Montana, but her journey to that town has been a long and arduous one. Maiza was born and grew up in a remote village in Brazil, and in her teens, joined her mother to cross the Mexican border into the US. They found their way to Seattle, Washington where they both cleaned houses relentlessly for the next ten years. After being first drawn to the night life of the big city, she finally yearned for more satisfaction from life and started exploring outdoor opportunities and then climbing. Soon, Maiza was obsessed and chose to make a life out of climbing, married a fellow climber, started working in the climbing industry and the rest, as they say, is current history.