Category: Uncategorized

Posted on

Enormocast 276: A Candid Ascent of Trango Tower with Jordan Cannon, Jesse Huey, and Matt Segal [Part 1]

All Photos: Cannon, Huey, Segal because it was just them up there.

On Episode 276 of the Enormocast, three guys dreamed big and got it done. Climbers Jordan Cannon and Jesse Huey hitched their wagons to Matt Segal‘s long standing dream of free climbing the second ascent of Todd Skinner et al’s master piece, Cowboy Direct, on Trango Tower in Pakistan (AKA Nameless Tower). What ensued was a mostly self-supported trip up the greatest big wall in the word and a 2nd ascent 27 years in the making. On this interview, we go deep into the logistics, the work, the pain, and the elation that it takes to climb such an audacious project. We also mine the depths of the interpersonal relationships and inner landscape of the three friends that set out to climb Trango and the changed climbers that returned. And this is only part one ending on the summit. Return for the second half to hear the boys’ revelations from 20k feet and their return to the valley below.

Matt’s Youtube

Jordan’s Insta

Jesse’s Insta

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

Subscribe: RSS

Posted on

Enormocast 275: Anna Liina Laitinen – Born to Kiivetä

Photos: Jan Novak, Sami Laitinen, Jan Novak

On Episode 275 of the Enormocast, I sit down face to face with Finnish climber Anna Laitenin. After a youth in gymnastics, Anna found climbing and then almost accidentally found herself one of the best climbers in Finland. A life of competitions and pursuing hard climbs at home and beyond followed, as did becoming a professional climber. But it hasn’t been a free ride for Anna. A discouraging and relentless string of injuries ensued, and Anna had to learn to let go of expectations from others and even from her own mind. Now the former Finnish wunderkind loves climbing even more than the day she started, though a career in competitive boot throwing is not out of the question.

Anna’s Website

Oatmeal

Anna on Instagram

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

Subscribe: RSS

Posted on

Enormocast 274: Roger Schaeli – In The Shadow of the Eiger

On Episode 274 of the Enormocast, I connect over the Atlantic with Swiss alpinist, guide, and Eiger North Face aficionado, Roger Schaeli. Roger was born directly in the Swiss alps and learned to climb at an early age with his father. Surrounded by deep Swiss climbing culture, an early accident did not deter Roger, rather it inspired him to be humble and careful in the mountains. The European media calls him “Mr. Eiger”, and though he finds that annoying, the nickname is not without its merit. Roger has climbed the North Face of the Eiger well-over 50 times, and he and his partners have opened some of the most difficult, committing, and best free climbs on the face. But Roger’s career encompasses much more than just the Eiger North Face. His exploits in Patagonia are legendary, and his expeditions span the globe. But whether in the big mountains or at the sport crag, good partners and having “fun” still reigns supreme.

Roger’s Instagram

Roger’s Website

Podcast: Play in new window | Download

Subscribe: RSS