On Episode 254 of the Enormocast, I connect with former gymnast, now climber and nutritionist, Amity Warme. Though Amity grew up just down the road from the climbing mecca of Boulder, Colorado and under the shadow of the Diamond and Rocky Mountain National Park, she was too preoccupied as a child and teen gymnast to notice rock climbing. Then an injury ended her run in a leotard and sent her seeking a new place to pour her considerable energy. Enter climbing. Amity took to it immediately, but it was a dark three years mucking around in New Jersey with her husband that broke them loose to a life on the road and climbing. Soon, Amity was crushing hard 5.13 and wondering about big objectives in Yosemite and beyond. Since the 2020 pandemic shut in opened up, Amity has been on a tear with ground up ascents of Golden Gate, Corazon, and a one-day-self-supported Free Rider ascent*, making her only the 5th woman to climb El Cap in a day. Meanwhile, she eats 5.13 trad for breakfast wherever she goes.
On this in-between ep of the Enormocast, I reconnect with Bron Hodgins and Jacob Cook to get a great trip report on their summer 2022 climbing and paddling expedition to Greenland. On Bron’s last Enormocast from August 2022, she was literally days away from departure when we recorded. The expedition was 40 days give or take, involved 6 team members, and was done by inflatable kayak and foot. Several walls were climbed, including a first ascent on the massive Kaersorsuak (Sanderson’s Hope).
On Episode 229 of the Enormocast, Steve Schneider joins me from his home in Oakland, California. Though Steve’s resume is longer than almost any previous guest on the show, he seems to fly in the nether regions of the global climbing consciousness. Steve became a YOSAR member and Valley denizen in the early 80s and never looked back. Under the tutelage of John Bachar, Steve racked up hard free pitches all over Yosemite, El Cap, and Tuolumne Meadows including what was likely the first 5.14 in Tuolumne. Then he turned his sights in Patagonia with audacious routes and solos in the Paine region. Also a pioneer speed climber, Steve did the first one day solo of El Cap and was the first to do three El Cap routes in a day with Hans Florine. Not done yet, Steve continues to seek out new-for-him ground on El Cap whenever he can. In his 60s, he’s still the most psyched and restless climber around.