On Episode 140 of the Enormocast, I sit down with World Citizen by way of Finland, Nalle Hukkataival. Much to my surprise, we found ourselves discussing at great length a single boulder problem, Burden of Dreams, something I never would have expected on the Enormocast. However, as we delve into Nalle’s send of what is currently the only problem rated V17 in the world, we found incredible terrain for examining motivation and resolve. Nalle explains the depth of reserves he had to call on to complete the project and the long fight with doubt. Nalle also talks about how he got into climbing in the flat land of Finland, and why bouldering is the way. Nalle is on top of his game, and it was a pleasure to talk to an absolute master.
On Episode 137 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a glass room with boulderer, sport climber, and secret trad-head, Carlo Traversi. Though mostly known for very very hard bouldering, Carlo’s humble beginnings, like many, started in a gym and with a dusting of trad credentials. But once he tasted hard bouldering – ironically on NOLS course – his own course was set for the next decade as he found himself humping pads up into the dawn of RMNP alpine pebble wrestling. But recently, at the top of his bouldering game, he found himself longing for new challenges, and now Carlo wants to bring that five-move-Kung Fu to the trad and big wall world.
On Episode 136 of the Enormocast, I sit down beside the Popo Agie River in Lander, Wyoming at the International Climbers Festival with Shelma Jun. Shelma somewhat accidentally started FlashFoxy, which after beginning as a humble Instagram account among friends, morphed into an advocacy movement for women’s climbing. Shelma then added the Women’s Climbing Festival to part of the FlashFoxy community and woke up as a full blow culture warrior. Level headed and not reactionary, Shelma lays out a list of issues she sees as oppressive to woman in climbing – many seem like minor slights but add up as a whole that is affecting women negatively. Shelma and Flashfoxy attempt to simply create space where women can feel safe to express themselves and climb as one of the gals instead of the one of the guys. The talk with Shelma is a call to the climbing community to be better at treating each other with respect and be welcoming to climbers of all genders, colors, and abilities.