On Episode 124 of the Enormcast, I sit down with sport climbing legend, Boone Speed. Like the Royal We here at the Enormocast, Boone came into climbing on the very cusp of the sport climbing revolution, but he quickly found himself in an overly steep cave in American Fork, Utah bolting what would become the hardest routes of his era. While other places more steeped in tradition were arguing over tactics, bolts, and more, Boone and his cohort were just figuring it out on their own, and they eventually turned a couple of formerly scrappy cliffs into destinations that endure to this day. Not happy with just being a ground breaking sport climber, Boone also spearheaded bouldering in Utah and was a founder of Pusher, the first modern climbing hold company. Wherever he went, Boone brought creativity and individual thinking, and we are now living with his legacy.
On Episode 115 of the Enormocast, boulderer Paul Robinson sits down for a great talk about process. It turns out that puberty was all it took for Paul Robinson to become great. Well, that and 10,000 hours breathing BO and chalk dust in a gym. But more than that, Paul talks about relentless positivity, embracing suckitude, and loving to fail all being part the mental challenge to bouldering and climbing. For him, finding new lines is also the fire that feeds his stoke. Smart, funny, polite, and kind, Paul Robinson is much more than you might expect.
On Episode 109 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a sweltering Mobile Studio at City Park in Lander, Wyomin’ during the IFC with climber, Chelsea Rude. Chelsea grew up in the South dreaming of the West and finally made the move to Colorado to pursue her climbing dreams. That dream at first revolved around comp climbing, then sport climbing, and now Chelsea- a seasoned 30 year old- wants to suffer in the big mountains. She’s dabbled in ice climbing, thrown herself at a gnarly Alaskan peak, and is cutting her teeth on the cracks. Will her desire to suffer survive repeated punishment? Only time will tell, but on the way, she’ll still crush your project at will.
On Episode 101 of the Enormocast, I sit down with SLC local, Justin Wood. Justin is a guy who has deep roots in the Salt Lake climbing scene but has traveled the world as a dirtbag and a van bum. Never one to let a job get in the way of a good road trip, Justin managed the vagabond climber lifestyle until pursuing a heady degree in Math finally settled him back down in the city and canyons of his youth. Now Justin is trying to be a matur-ish adult between trips and developing boulders in his home areas, even giving back as a activist on the Salt Lake Climbers Alliance.
On Epsiode 77, I’m working hard for you on my Spanish vacation tracking down Austrian kraftpakets Kilian Fischhuber and Anna Stöhr. My friend Bernardo Giminez facilitated a meeting and Anna and Kilian were gracious enough to invite me into their temporary home to talk. In perfect English, they explain their military sponsorship, the Austrian climbing scene, and what they love about climbing. Crossing the cultural gap, we also discuss guns in ‘Merica.