On Episode 186 of the Enormocast, I sit down with comp climber, boulderer, and sport climber, Sean Bailey. Sean’s outdoor feats include an ascent of Biographie/Realization (5.15a) in Ceuse, France and Joe Mama (5.15a) at Oliana, Spain. His comp results have put him on top of Nationals in both bouldering and lead, not to mention a space early in his career on the USA youth team as, wait for it, a SPEED CLIMBER. Sean admits that there is a bit of a conflict between climbing outside and training for comps. Nevertheless, he does his best to unite his passion as a competitor and passion for outdoor climbing. We also discuss Sean’s reluctant but necessary participation in social media. A little bit punk rock, a little bit hip-hop, Sean Bailey may just be the vanguard of a new wave of young, serious, slightly disaffected climbers ready to crush the old’s expectations.
On Episode 177 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a parking lot with Canadian boulderer and comp-climber, Allison Vest. Though Allison grew up in the heart of the Canadian Rockies’ alpine gnar, competition and plastic were her heart’s desire. She made her mark as a youth climber, and after a wayward year in Edmonton, and the worst Southeast Asia sport climbing trip anyone has ever lived to tell about, Allison buckled down to become Canada’s National Bouldering Champ in 2018. Following this interview, she won the Canadian 2019 Open Lead Championships. Now, after struggling through injury last year, but tasting recent success in 2019, Allison is poised to find her true potential training in Vancouver and looking to the future beyond the 2020 Olympics.
On Episode 109 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a sweltering Mobile Studio at City Park in Lander, Wyomin’ during the IFC with climber, Chelsea Rude. Chelsea grew up in the South dreaming of the West and finally made the move to Colorado to pursue her climbing dreams. That dream at first revolved around comp climbing, then sport climbing, and now Chelsea- a seasoned 30 year old- wants to suffer in the big mountains. She’s dabbled in ice climbing, thrown herself at a gnarly Alaskan peak, and is cutting her teeth on the cracks. Will her desire to suffer survive repeated punishment? Only time will tell, but on the way, she’ll still crush your project at will.