On episode 248 of the Enormocast, I post up in HER van to talk to Kaya Lindsay: offwidth aficionado, film-maker, van-lifer (former), and more. I know it seems like Sprinters have been jamming up the parking since the beginning of time, but Kaya was a first-wave modern #vanlife climber. Striking out from Santa Cruz, CA to Joshua Tree, Kaya had limited rock climbing skills, a limited bank account, but a capacity for boundless joy. During her 6 year run in her van, she became an accomplished trad-climber, photographer, film-maker, and internet media maven with her Onechicktravels and Girls Gone Wide brands. She also became a little jaded, but then she gathered a crew that included Brittany Goris, Mary “Tradprincess” Eden, and Mercadi Carlson and changed the way we think about women who trad-climb and women who offwidth. Though she right now has four walls in Moab, UT, her van is always ready to “lock the doors, and drive away”.
On Episode 214 of the Enormocast, I beam myself to Sheffield, England, the heart of British climbing, to talk to Pete Whittaker. Pete is one half of the infamous Wide Boyz but not just an offwidth climber. His prowess on cracks of all sizes is well known and has lead to his new definitive modern crack climbing instruction book cleverly called, Crack Climbing. But on top of that acumen, Pete is also a brilliant trad climber and Grit climber. Finally, his bigwall record in Yosemite is quite astounding with several free ascents of the Big Stone and even a one day rope solo ascent of the Free Rider. Known, too, for a cheeky sense of humor and his rolling real-life-buddy-movie with Tom Randall, it always seems like Pete is indeed Alex Lowe’s mythical Best-Climber-Having-the-Most-Fun.
On Episode 206, we get down to climbing talk and climbing stories with Andres Marin. Andres was born and grew up in the mountains of Colombia, but immigrated to the US as a young man. Ending up in Grand Junction, Colorado, Andres was quickly drawn to the climbing opportunities in his back yard. Soon, he found himself guiding Mt. Rainier over and over and over (and over) again. Finally, he wound up as a consummate guide in Ouray, Colorado and then on the North Face team. Andres has been drawn to all forms of climbing, with alpinism and ice climbing being his bread and butter. First ascents world wide dot his resume amid years of desert climbing and technical Rocky Mountain ice. Good for a laugh and a crazy story, Andres Marin is the kind of climber you want at your campfire.