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Enormocast 299: Nina Caprez – Two Roads Just as Fair

Photos: Jérémy Bernard
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On Episode 299 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a fine hotel suite with the elegant Nina Caprez. We met up at the Arc’teryx Academy in Squamish, and after a Co-MC gig on the main stage the previous night, Nina and I reviewed our performance and then got down to business reviewing the 9 intervening years since our last Enormocast. Among other things, Nina climbed El Nino on El Cap, got shut down on the Nose, fell in love, had a kid, moved into a surplus military vehicle, and got pregnant a 2nd time. But that’s not all! She also had an epiphany that perhaps, just perhaps, there was more to life than the next big climbing trip. We now get a Nina who is in an ongoing mission to calm down, balance momming and climbing, and be a less selfish partner.

Nina’s remarkably up-to-date blog

Classic Nina in WOGÜ

The UBER-Duo of Nina and Babsi Zangerl

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Enormocast 298: Jim Erickson – Clean and Free in the 1970s

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On Episode 298 of the Enormocast, I sit down in with Boulder, Colorado legend, Jim Erickson. Turns out that when Jim climbed the crags and roamed the streets of Boulder in the late 60s and 70s, it was a cow-town – not the bougie climbing mecca we love to hate on today. Erickson grew up climbing at Devil’s Lake, Wisconsin, but was looking for a college experience with close-by climbing and ended up out west. Quickly, he established himself as the most psyched climber of the small community and was raging through Eldo in no time. Jim’s free ascent of the Naked Edge with Duncan Ferguson in 1971 put him on the top of the heap worldwide. But just months later, Jim embraced clean climbing and embarked on a sending spree that went a very long way to evangelize for using removable rock-friendly nuts exclusively. Jim’s ethics evolved to eschew chalk and several other modern conveniences, yet he nearly sent Half-Dome free in 1976 with Art Higbee. This ascent and many others established Jim as one of the best and unique free climbers of all time.

Free Climb: The Northwest Face of Half Dome, Jim Erickson and Art Higbee scale Half Dome

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Enormocast 297: Paul “PK” Kuenn – The Dairylander

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On Episode 297 of the Enormocast, I sit down in Munising, Michigan with local Midwest legend, Paul Kuenn. In his youth near Milwaukee, Wisconsin, Paul was drawn to the outdoors: fly-fishing, cross-country skiing, and finally, climbing at Devil’s Lake. Climbing became obsession which brought him to the PNW to become a guide and to Colorado to ply his craft as a guide but also a builder. But the upper midwest drew him back, and Paul set out on a mission to find and climb ice all around Lake Superior. He also created Dairyland Expeditions which specialized in alpine training in Wyoming and Montana, and guiding ice in Munising. Paul also help organized and popularize the AMGA. Now decades later, Paul still revels in the ice climbing community he helped to form on the lonely ice flows of Lake Superior and attends the Michigan Ice Fest nearly without fail since its inception in a tiny cabin on the shore of mighty Gichigami.

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