Episode 97: Jay Smith – A Climber for All Seasons.

Jay Smith andhis mustache.
Jay Smith and his mustache.

On Episode 97 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a limping Mobile Studio with alpinist, and all-around climber, Jay Smith. Jay and I get through his discomfort to talk about his early climbing, his vast motivation for first ascents, rigging, and best partners. Jay may or may not have sanctioned himself Clint-Eastwood-style by revealing classified intel about Navy Seal training. Jay is more at home freezing on a Himalayan peak than talking about himself, but his personality shines through in this hour in the Mobile Studio.

Since there’s basically nothing on the internet about Jay Smith, the climber, here’s a video of Jay Smith, the Swedish Country singer.

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Episode 90: Peter Metcalf- Big Peaks and High Stakes.

metcalf
PM on the Evolution Traverse. Photo: Kolin Powick

On Episode 90 of the Enormocast, I sit down across the table from Peter Metcalf, CEO and founder of Black Diamond. Peter discovered his love of the mountains on the East Coast but quickly found himself in the Alaska range testing his teenage mettle against the Last Frontier’s gnarliest peaks. After sating his youthful obsession with a proud ascent of the Southeast Spur of Mt Hunter, Peter found himself under the tutelage of Yvon Chouinard and at the helm of Chouinard Equipment and then desperately cobbling together Black Diamond from its rubble. Now Peter continues to climb, ski, guide BD, and fight the good fight against the exploitation of our beloved wild lands and climbing areas.

Another look at Peter’s Mt Hunter Ascent

More about Peter

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Episode 82: Jack Tackle – True Grit.

Jack Tackle, Ruth Lake, Uinta Mountains, UT
Photo: Andrew Burr

On Episode 82 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a magical place with mountaineering legend and Bozeman native, Jack Tackle. From the Montana to the Himalaya to Patagonia, and most importantly, to Alaska, Jack Tackle has set light and fast standards since before that was a “thing”. This dogged, humble, hardman is still revered by generations that have literally followed in his footsteps. Jack reflects on his major ascents, friends lost, and a life of expedition climbing. The deep intonement of Jack Tackle’s baritone is like the voice of the mountain itself.

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Episode 40: Doug Shepherd- Too smart to be stupid.

Photo Dan Gambino http://www.dangpix.com/
Photo: Dan Gambino
http://www.dangpix.com/

On Episode 40 of the Enormocast, I sit Doug Shepherd down in my comfortably air conditioned hotel room on a sweltering SLC day to discuss alpine climbing. A relative unknown, Doug has climbed in the greater ranges of North and South America and quietly racked up impressive ascents and the respect of his more famous peers. Doug and I discuss the nature and risks of modern alpinism, why community matters, and why its so easy to be smart and stupid at the same time when it comes to alpine ascents. We also give a shout out to Doug’s lost comrade Kevin Landolt.

A story of climbing in “The Park” by Doug

 

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