Episode 62: Angie Payne- Type A for Angela.

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Angie, age 10, preparing to attempt a particularly dangerous highball.

On Episode 62 of the Enormocast, dedicated boulderer Angie Payne is lured into the sweltering Mobile Studio for a deep talk about her inner workings. Angie candidly tells us about her struggles with perfectitude, expectations, and the midwest mindset. Climbing Vwhatever did not come easy to the former Cinci golden girl. Angie Payne took the road less traveled, and that continues to make all the difference.

Angie’s Website

 

 

Episode 61: Don McGrath and the Vertical Mind

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The two most important books in the Mobile Studio.

On Episode 61 of the Enormocast, I roll the mobile studio to the Northern Corner of the Bromuda Triangle for a sit down with author Don McGrath about his book, Vertical Mind. Along with Jeff Elison, Don wrote Vertical Mind about how to train the mind to work with the body in climbing, rather than, as it often does, turn us into whimpering, scared little weasels. Don reveals that even in a simple day at Rifle, I had exhibited embarrassingly little will over my own mind and am in need of some serious reprogramming. So come along for this ride into your inner space, and maybe find some tricks for taming those fears that you didn’t even know you had.

Vertical Mind the book.

Don’s Training Blog: Master Rock Climber

50 Athletes Over 50

 

Episode 60: Building a Better Climber w/ Topher Donahue and Chris Van Leuven

High above Boulder

On Episode 60, we record a live one on Climbing Lawyer Dan Markoff’s deck overlooking Boulder, Colorado. Climbers Topher Donahue and Chris Van Leuven join me for a discussion of what it takes to lose that new climber smell, and replace it with old trad-climber stink. The sometimes contentious discussion ranges from toothbrush shaving, to where to store your nuts, and, luckily, a few pearls of wisdom get dropped by my guests. I’m pretty sure we don’t mention the Black, Indian Creek, or Rifle: perhaps a first on the Enormocast. As a bonus, stick around to the end for a moment of slam poetry created at the event by Jena Kirkpatrick.

Jena Kirkpatrick: Poet for Hire.

Trad with Topher class from the Colorado Mountain School.