climbing

June 21, 2013April 12, 2015

Episode 37: The Safety Dance with Duane Raleigh.

On Episode 37, I sit down for what is probably the last episode from Studio A- the closet. The Royal We is getting thrown out on his royal ass because they’re selling the joint and he can’t afford to buy it (hint!). Duane Raleigh from Rock and Ice Magazine joins in for a discussion about safety, about why you shouldn’t use the bowline, should put knots in your rap lines, and all sorts of other simple tips to staying alive. This guy has made all the mistakes and somehow lived to tell the tale, although not without his share of bone screws.

Because I didn’t use it in the show, here’s a link to the classic Safety Dance Video.

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June 6, 2013April 12, 2015

Episode 36: Choss Wranglers BJ Sbarra and Mike Schneiter.

Bad_Bolt — A really bad bolt cleaned off a popular local route. YIKES!

On Episode 36 of the Enormocast, I sit down with return guest BJ Sbarra and local guide and teacher Mike Schneiter to discuss new routing and bolting. In this episode, we manage to say “bolt” enough times to probably overload the servers over at the Supertopo Forum. Mike and BJ share their vast knowledge of putting steel to rock and creating climbs so we don’t have to. To Bolt or Not to Be really is the question here in the Roaring Fork Valley, and BJ and Mike give us some good inside knowledge on why we ought not forget that even bolts can fail.

Splitterchoss.com

glenwoodclimbingguides.com (Mike’s Company)

A post by Mike about replacing bolts on Pretty Hate Machine in Rifle

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May 21, 2013April 12, 2015

Episode 35: Jen Olson- Lucky Number 7.

On Episode 35 of the Enormocast, I lure Canadian climber Jen Olson to my closet with promises of glory. After giving her the tour of two thirds of the Bromuda Triangle (Rifle, Black Canyon, but not Indian Creek), Jen finally agreed to get on the mic and fill us in on how she ended up becoming such an accomplished alpinist. Jen tells us how she didn’t need no stinkin’ boyfriend to show her the ropes, and how she became the 7th Canadian woman to receive her international guiding certification, and managed to climb a little ice and rock in between. Jen Olson: as Canadian as Roller Skates and Duct tape.