On Episode 210 of the Enormocast, we journey into the impossibly distant past of a year ago for an interview recorded in the pre-pandemic bliss of January 2020 with climber, guidebook author, and artist, Jason Nelson. Jason hails from Maine, but is most associated with the small town with big climbing aspirations: Ouray, Colorado. As a developer of rock climbing, ice climbing, and dry-tooling routes, Jason is a triple threat new route hound. One of his more controversial and now popular contributions is the infamous Hall of Justice cave where only dry-toolers need apply. Jason fills us in on the dark arts of dry tool choss development. Finally, Jason is the author of two guidebooks, Climbs of the Million Dollar Highway and Suffer Candy Volume One, as well as the soon to be revealed Suffer Candy Volume 2. Stick around the interview for an update from the present.
On Episode 206, we get down to climbing talk and climbing stories with Andres Marin. Andres was born and grew up in the mountains of Colombia, but immigrated to the US as a young man. Ending up in Grand Junction, Colorado, Andres was quickly drawn to the climbing opportunities in his back yard. Soon, he found himself guiding Mt. Rainier over and over and over (and over) again. Finally, he wound up as a consummate guide in Ouray, Colorado and then on the North Face team. Andres has been drawn to all forms of climbing, with alpinism and ice climbing being his bread and butter. First ascents world wide dot his resume amid years of desert climbing and technical Rocky Mountain ice. Good for a laugh and a crazy story, Andres Marin is the kind of climber you want at your campfire.
On Epsiode 66, I sit down in a dumpy hotel in SLC with Angela Van Wiemeersch. Angela’s story began on the sharp blades of competition skating and came full circle when she strapped on crampons for the first time. In the meantime, we hear about a whirlwind life crisscrossing the US and Canada as a traveling soul, hunkering down in the Yukon winter, and finally getting a lucky date in the Ouray Ice Park. Angela’s entry into the hardcore world of ice climbing belies its fierce reputation. And though she has a lot to learn, swinging picks came as natural as hucking double axels.