Tag: speed climbing

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Enormocast 315: Kate Kelleghan – Turbocharged Life

Photos: Abbey Bergh, Kate Kelleghan, Julien Scherliss, James Lucas

On Episode 315 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Boulder-born Yosemite-trained speed climbing maestra, Kate Kelleghan. Kate came to climbing at 20 despite, or maye TO spite, her climbing dad. A youth of dark eye make-up, music, art, and smoke-sessions behind the school finally gave way to a life of climbing adventure when dad took Kate up the 3rd Flatiron as a teen. Then, as was her way, she leapt into the deep end and became a CLIMBER, eventually moving through the gym to finding trad climbing on the cliffs above Boulder like Castle Rock and Eldo. Then she fell into the quirky world of the Naked Edge speed games eventually creating, setting, then breaking her own women’s speed record. Eventually, Yosemite pulled her further west where bigwall speed climbing was her future. This path culminated (for now) when Kate and Laura Pineau became the only women (so far) to ever complete the Yosemite Triple: Half Dome, El Capitan, and Watkins in a day.

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Enormocast 229: Steve “Shipoopoi” Schneider – Blonde Ambition

On Episode 229 of the Enormocast, Steve Schneider joins me from his home in Oakland, California. Though Steve’s resume is longer than almost any previous guest on the show, he seems to fly in the nether regions of the global climbing consciousness. Steve became a YOSAR member and Valley denizen in the early 80s and never looked back. Under the tutelage of John Bachar, Steve racked up hard free pitches all over Yosemite, El Cap, and Tuolumne Meadows including what was likely the first 5.14 in Tuolumne. Then he turned his sights in Patagonia with audacious routes and solos in the Paine region. Also a pioneer speed climber, Steve did the first one day solo of El Cap and was the first to do three El Cap routes in a day with Hans Florine. Not done yet, Steve continues to seek out new-for-him ground on El Cap whenever he can. In his 60s, he’s still the most psyched and restless climber around.

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Enormocast 216- Jim Reynolds Searches for the Rhythm

Photos: Alexa Flowers, Ted Hesser, Jim Reynolds

On Episode 216 for the Enormocast, I luck into an interview with the elusive Jim Reynolds. Jim popped onto most of our radars with a really fast ascent of the Nose with the late great Brad Gobright followed by some truly audacious solos in Patagonia including an onsight solo up and down of Fitzroy. Finally, his sort of comic appearance in the Real Rock 14 film about Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold breaking 2 hours on the Nose made a lot of people wonder, “Who’s that guy with Brad Gobright?” But of course, there is way more to Jim than that guy. This episode brings to light the stories that made him renown and also the details of his soloing life and life in Yosemite. Jim loves to disappear into the mountains, but he is also starting to love to tell the tales when he returns.

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