On episode 242 of the Enormocast, I run with one of the big dogs of the 80s, Scott Franklin. Scott was a prodigy shaking up the Gunks and the old ways in the early 80s. He then dropped the taboos against hang-dogging, bolting, top down inspection, and helped usher in the sport climbing revolution we still embrace to this day. But he’s no one trick pony, before he did the 2nd ascent and first American ascent of To Bolt or Not to Be (5.14a), he had cut his teeth as a trad master and a soloist. So when the establishment freaked out about wimpy “sportos”, Franklin was able to walk the walk with the trad dads while espousing the virtues of athletic bolted climbing. Once labelled enemy #1 by the old guard, Scott’s reputation has mellowed after raising a family, becoming and entrepreneur at Franklin Climbing and then Lumos Solar, and still climbing after all these years.
On Episode 65 of the Enormocast, I sit down in some random hotel room in Salt Lake City for a chat with my good friend Russ Clune. Gunks local, long time hardman, world traveller, Clune fills us in on the beginnings of sport climbing, comp climbing, and the heyday of European free climbing. He participated in some of the earliest comps in the US and Europe and embraced new ethics and methods to push free climbing forward. Russ fills in the murky history of Lycra and makes a plea for the return of Team Motivation‘s trophy. Also, Maria the maid drops by to hand out towels.