Tag: Trad climbing

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Enormocast 254: Amity Warme – Putting the Hammer Down

Photos: Felipe Tapia Nordenflycht, Scott Eubank, Tempei Takeuchi
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On Episode 254 of the Enormocast, I connect with former gymnast, now climber and nutritionist, Amity Warme. Though Amity grew up just down the road from the climbing mecca of Boulder, Colorado and under the shadow of the Diamond and Rocky Mountain National Park, she was too preoccupied as a child and teen gymnast to notice rock climbing. Then an injury ended her run in a leotard and sent her seeking a new place to pour her considerable energy. Enter climbing. Amity took to it immediately, but it was a dark three years mucking around in New Jersey with her husband that broke them loose to a life on the road and climbing. Soon, Amity was crushing hard 5.13 and wondering about big objectives in Yosemite and beyond. Since the 2020 pandemic shut in opened up, Amity has been on a tear with ground up ascents of Golden Gate, Corazon, and a one-day-self-supported Free Rider ascent*, making her only the 5th woman to climb El Cap in a day. Meanwhile, she eats 5.13 trad for breakfast wherever she goes.

*Brent Barghahn and Amity’s Self-Supported style.

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Enormocast 244: Hazel Findlay – A Work in Progress

Photos Left: Jon Griffin, Right: Bearcam

On Episode 244, we herald the return of British trad ace, Hazel Findlay. Since her last appearance in 2013, a lot has happened to both the Royal We and Hazel Findlay. We start the conversation with dissecting her own podcast, The Curious Climber. Then we move to talking about her mental training and coaching. Hazel reveals that she herself is a “work in progress” in terms of mental training despite her incredible record on hard, scary trad. Hazel dishes on her own body image hang-ups, and her role as an inspirational woman climber. Oh, and don’t you forget she is a fucking good sport climber!

All Things Hazel

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Enormocast 221: Lor Sabourin – Being Themself

On Episode 221 of the Enormocast, I manage to sit down face to face and maskless with Lor Sabourin. Lor’s recent send of East Coast Fist Bump in Northern Arizona piqued my interest and a tip from Mary Eden got them in the room. Originally from Detroit, Michigan, like so many kids before, Lor started out in the gym. They quickly progressed to climbing and then guiding in the Red River Gorge. After a fateful trip to Indian Creek where they fell in love with crack climbing, Lor now calls Flagstaff, AZ home. During most of Lor’s climbing career, they have wrestled with being open about their non-binary gender, but in recent years, Lor has been open about gender, climbing, and advocacy for trans people and kids which has lead them to a healthier relationship with both themself and climbing.

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