On Episode 221 of the Enormocast, I manage to sit down face to face and maskless with Lor Sabourin. Lor’s recent send of East Coast Fist Bump in Northern Arizona piqued my interest and a tip from Mary Eden got them in the room. Originally from Detroit, Michigan, like so many kids before, Lor started out in the gym. They quickly progressed to climbing and then guiding in the Red River Gorge. After a fateful trip to Indian Creek where they fell in love with crack climbing, Lor now calls Flagstaff, AZ home. During most of Lor’s climbing career, they have wrestled with being open about their non-binary gender, but in recent years, Lor has been open about gender, climbing, and advocacy for trans people and kids which has lead them to a healthier relationship with both themself and climbing.
On Episode 164 of the Enormocast, I sit down with CLIMB!ing legend, Jamie Logan. Logan was one of a handful of climbers in 1970s era Boulder, CO redefining what climbing would look like in the coming decades: from resetting free-climbing standards to imagining new difficulty and new styles in the alpine. After climbing a visionary route on the Emperor Face on Canada’s Mount Robson, “Jim” Logan walked away from hard climbing to focus on family and career. 30 years later, another transition would recreate his life as the woman Jamie Logan has become. “Jim” Logan had always felt out of sorts in his gender and skin, and now in her 60s, Jamie Logan has emerged as a advocate for LGBT people and for climbers facing their own fears about identity and fitting in.