Enormocast 229: Steve “Shipoopoi” Schneider – Blonde Ambition

On Episode 229 of the Enormocast, Steve Schneider joins me from his home in Oakland, California. Though Steve’s resume is longer than almost any previous guest on the show, he seems to fly in the nether regions of the global climbing consciousness. Steve became a YOSAR member and Valley denizen in the early 80s and never looked back. Under the tutelage of John Bachar, Steve racked up hard free pitches all over Yosemite, El Cap, and Tuolumne Meadows including what was likely the first 5.14 in Tuolumne. Then he turned his sights in Patagonia with audacious routes and solos in the Paine region. Also a pioneer speed climber, Steve did the first one day solo of El Cap and was the first to do three El Cap routes in a day with Hans Florine. Not done yet, Steve continues to seek out new-for-him ground on El Cap whenever he can. In his 60s, he’s still the most psyched and restless climber around.

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Enormocast 227: Jordan Cannon – The Full Picture

A5 Traverse Golden Gate, After the send afterglow, Peace. All Photos: Max Buschini

On Episode 227 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a van (his) in Rifle with return guest Jordan Cannon. Jordan’s career continues to flourish since his last appearance on the Enormocast with Mark Hudon and his first appearance back in 2018. The main topic on the table is Jordan’s saga with freeing Golden Gate on El Cap including his one day free ascent last year. We also talk about being a professional climber, Jordan’s evolving relationship with is mentor and best friend Mark, and finally, his recent coming out as gay and how that public revelation has changed his life. Jordan seems to represent a lot of what’s great and noble about climbing and its always fun to hear from him.

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Enormocast 223: John Long – Existential Horsepower

On Episode 223 of the Enormocast, I sit down with legend, John Long. I first met Long, AKA Largo, some 25 years ago in West Los Angeles at a climbing gym. As I got to know him in that gym community, I quickly realized that the John Long I knew from his books like Gorilla Monsoon and Rock Jocks, Wall Rats, and Hang Dogs did not line up too well with the man before me. Instead of just a bombastic rock jock himself, John was thoughtful and intellectual and at the time, trying to walk away from “Largo” as an image. In his new book, Icarus Syndrome, Long reveals more of his true self to the than ever before. Though he is still John fucking Long: rock jock and adventure seeker, the John Long of today has matured into a true statesmen of the sport and a better writer than he’s ever been.

Your portal into the 80S: The Art of Leading

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