Episode 117: Heather Weidner – The Life of Try.

heather-collageOn Episode 117, I sit down in a La Quinta Inn in Rifle, Colorado (the town, not the climbing area) with Heather Weidner. Heather and I nerd out on the process it took for her to do the first female ascent of China Doll (5.14R) sans bolts. Then we go deeper. After sending the multi-year mega-project that was China Doll, instead of lasting elation, Heather felt let-down and self-loathing. Heather had given up being a veterinarian to become a professional climber, and as she finally had space to reflect on that choice and her life before climbing, she’s had to reckon with sad memories and troubled times from the past. Climbing, though, still gives her the outlet she needs to be happy and move forward. Onward and upward, Heather hopes to graduate to “For-Lifer” and always find solace in climbing.

Heather is a rare pro that keeps her blog relatively up-to-date! 

Life in Reverse

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Episode 116: Dave Allfrey – Psyched and Solid.

daveallfrey On Episode 116, I sit down with big wall badass ans speed climber, Dave Allfrey. His endless psyche and skills-to-pay-the-bills has made Dave one of the go-to guys in the Sierra and beyond when moving fast and safe is on the menu. Dave’s years on SAR and mentorships from some of the best has made him the kind of climber that will succeed no matter what the project. Dave has also forged partnerships with the best young climbers of his generation. In this episode, Dave gives his perspective on the discussion of Haywire that we started with Cheyne Lempe back in Episode 110. Too much stoke for just an hour, but it will have to do. Dave’s Website  

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Episode 115: Paul Robinson Loves to Fail.

On Episode 115 of the Enormocast, boulderer Paul Robinson sits down for a great talk about process. It turns out that puberty was all it took for Paul Robinson to become great. Well, that and 10,000 hours breathing BO and chalk dust in a gym. But more than that, Paul talks about relentless positivity, embracing suckitude, and loving to fail all being part the mental challenge to bouldering and climbing. For him, finding new lines is also the fire that feeds his stoke. Smart, funny, polite, and kind, Paul Robinson is much more than you might expect.

Info about Paul’s upcoming film Uncharted Lines

Paul’s Website

paulrobinson

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Episode 114: Kolin Powick uses SCIENCE to keep you ALIVE!

kp-collageOn Episode 114 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Black Diamond’s Climbing Category Director and former Director of Quality, Kolin Powick. Episode 114 is filled with science and nerds out on gear. We start specifically with Black Diamond’s recent recalls, but then we move into gear issues generally. Myths, misconceptions, mistakes are all discussed. As Kolin says a few times, preventing accidents is in the best interest of the industry. Kolin wants you to live to climb another day, but he also wants you to give up that ratty old harness and those manky cams before its too late. And most importantly, he wants you to know that he is Canadian. Very Canadian.

The BD recalls.

Black Diamond Q C Labs – where gear goes to die.

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Episode 113: Rob Pizem – The Time is Now.

Photos: Andrew Burr, Dan Gambino, Andrew Burr

Photos: Andrew Burr, Dan Gambino, Andrew Burr

On Episode 113, I finally move Rob Pizem from his on-deck status to current guest after saving him for a rainy day for a few years. Pizem, AKA Piz, manages a “normal” life in Grand Junction, Colorado and still climbs really hard. I try to glean the magic of how to have it all: a job(s), kids, wife, international trips, hard sends, training time, and some sleep – and, his blog is up to date!! (perhaps the only professional climber in the world to achieve this audacious feat). Unfortunately, the secret is no secret, just hard work, time management, desire, and (ugh) a bit of golf? Luckily, Rob does tip his hand a few times to give us a glimpse of what it takes to get it done. Essentially: don’t wait, do it now.

More on the Piz machine.

 

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