Episode 114: Kolin Powick uses SCIENCE to keep you ALIVE!

kp-collageOn Episode 114 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Black Diamond’s Climbing Category Director and former Director of Quality, Kolin Powick. Episode 114 is filled with science and nerds out on gear. We start specifically with Black Diamond’s recent recalls, but then we move into gear issues generally. Myths, misconceptions, mistakes are all discussed. As Kolin says a few times, preventing accidents is in the best interest of the industry. Kolin wants you to live to climb another day, but he also wants you to give up that ratty old harness and those manky cams before its too late. And most importantly, he wants you to know that he is Canadian. Very Canadian.

The BD recalls.

Black Diamond Q C Labs – where gear goes to die.

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Episode 113: Rob Pizem – The Time is Now.

Photos: Andrew Burr, Dan Gambino, Andrew Burr

Photos: Andrew Burr, Dan Gambino, Andrew Burr

On Episode 113, I finally move Rob Pizem from his on-deck status to current guest after saving him for a rainy day for a few years. Pizem, AKA Piz, manages a “normal” life in Grand Junction, Colorado and still climbs really hard. I try to glean the magic of how to have it all: a job(s), kids, wife, international trips, hard sends, training time, and some sleep – and, his blog is up to date!! (perhaps the only professional climber in the world to achieve this audacious feat). Unfortunately, the secret is no secret, just hard work, time management, desire, and (ugh) a bit of golf? Luckily, Rob does tip his hand a few times to give us a glimpse of what it takes to get it done. Essentially: don’t wait, do it now.

More on the Piz machine.


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Episode 112: Jean-Pierre “Peewee” Ouellet – The Collector.

peewee-collageOn Episode 112, I sit down with crack master Jean-Pierre, AKA Peewee, Ouellet. This one is for the crack nerds- the folks for whom the difference between a ring-lock and a finger-stack can be an all night, booze fueled debate, and JP delivers. We learn about his very specific approach to hard crack “collecting”. JP has repeated hard single pitch crack climbs all over North America, and he’s not stopping soon. He also comes clean on the tricks of the trade, some of which may raise the permanently scowling eyebrows of the crusty tradsters out there. But above all, Jean-Pierre approaches his routes with a certain savoir faire, a je n’est ce qua, a je reviendrai that the rest of us don’t have. Listen and learn, crack aficionados!

JP on No Way Jose.

Alex Honnold on No Way Jose (for comparison).

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Episode 111: Brad Gobright – High Class Dirtbag.

Brad coolage

On Episode 111 of the Enormocast, I sit down with rock climber and genuine good guy, Brad Gobright. This lighthearted “kid” approaches climbing the gnar with joy and stoke, but don’t let that fool you – he’s got the eye of the tiger and skills of the ninja. Brad has been quietly crushing first free solos and speed records in Colorado and California for a long time. His new found recognition does not fit him like a glove, but he’s getting comfortable with the creature comforts that come with success, like not living in his Civic. Happy to be climbing, happy to be on the Enormocast, happy to be alive, Brad gives us a lesson on how to have a good time, all the time.

OverSpray about Brad from Outside

Three El Cap Routes in a Day

The Naked Edge Really Really Fast

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Episode 110: Cheyne Lempe – Finding His Way.


On Episode 110 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a seedy hotel in SLC with a very Zen Cheyne Lempy. Cheyne had just returned from a session with Rock Warrior Way‘s author, Arno Ilgner, and was feeling absolutely himself. Cheyne instantly unloads about his trip to Baffin depicted in his film, Haywire. His first big expedition, things did not go as planned and Cheyne came to question the motivations that brought him so deep and “out there” on the ice. Cheyne also comes clean about the anxiety and depression that he has dealt with his whole life, even while taking down big walls left and right. He’s ready for the next big thing, but he’s just not quite sure what that might be.

Cheyne’s Website

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