Episode 6: Hayden Kennedy: Alpine Taliban or Patagonian Custodian™? (Part 1)

Maestri and his Compressor (a dramatization).

Oh, man. On Episode 6 of the Enormocast, I sit down in a remote secret bunker deep in the Rockies with the man of the hour and my friend: Hayden Kennedy. HK comes clean about his season in Patagonia with Jason Kruk and their now infamous decision to remove the headwall bolt ladders on Cesare Maestri’s 1970 Compressor Route. Quite a ride its been. This is Part 1.

More fun reading on the Compressor Controversy:
Kelly Cordes’ Cleanest Line Blog
Rolo Garibotti’s site
Italian Stefano Lovison’s view
Arnaud Petit’s view
Everyone else’s view: Supertopo
Everyone else’s view: Mountain Project

 

 

About Chris Kalous

Owner, operator, guru, yogi of enormocast.
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12 Responses to Episode 6: Hayden Kennedy: Alpine Taliban or Patagonian Custodian™? (Part 1)

  1. Best Enormocast (or OBP) episode yet! I finally had a chance to listen to it a few days. Hayden is not only a badass alpinist but an extremely well-spoken individual. You asked the right questions and we got some great insight into the Cerro Torre bolt-removal issue. It is pretty disheartening that the bolt removal issue overshadowed the death of Carlyle and the very impressive number of ascents Jason and Hayden pulled off in such a short amount of time.
    I’m excited to listen to part II tomorrow. Keep up the good work, Chris.

  2. Clay Hall says:

    I’ve only heard Part 1 so far… Awesome. I think Kruk did a disservice to this whole thing with his righteous written account, and I’m glad to hear that these amazing climbers had the best of intentions. I think the message here is that we should all pay out a little slack… We can cut Kruk slack for his righteous language in the initial account, considering the shock of the mob scene in Chaltén and the death of his good friend. Egualmente, we should cut Maestri some slack for the shocking loss of his partner Egger. As an American that has spent a lot of time in Chaltén and understands the “Maldito Yanquee Imperialista” view of Norte Americanos in most of South America the mob scene there is no surprise. Americans have no business being the moral police of the world. The book was titled “The Freedom of the Hills” not “The Righteousness of the Hills”. For me, the overriding idea of Alpinisim is to get out in the mountains and escape all the cultural B.S. and leave the baggage behind… I think this whole thing exposes the cultural divide between elites and commoners in the world and how it has crept into even the places where the entire goal was to leave all distinctions behind and live in the moment in present company. I won’t bother to elaborate on cultural and and national tensions. Hayden is obviously a brilliant mind and this is the most inspiring shit I have heard in a long time. Kudos to Chris for a great interview, but I think he may be a bit naive as well if he is surprised by the decline of the climbing civilization and culture, and again I cite elitism… I’m disheartened by the “sponsorship over sportsmanship” attitude that exists nowadays and Hayden sounds like a beacon of hope for the human spirit in a world of commercialism. After hearing Hayden speak about their party’s motives I feel I owe an apology for earlier comments and/or criticism about their actions. This is a young man with the talent and intellect to really bring things back into balance. Great story any way you look at it! Looking forward to Part II!

    • Chris Kalous says:

      Clay,

      Thanks for the thoughtful comment. We actually address many of the things you bring up in part 2. I’d love to hear back from you when you listen to that one. I think you will be further impressed with Hayden.

      As to Jason (and Hayden’s) statement, I agree that now it seems rather righteous and stilted. I agree that it was probably something of a pushback with elbows out, if you know what I mean.

      Chris

  3. Pingback: Juxtaposition | Montana Splitski

  4. Eric says:

    excellent interview. This is the type of media that is often lacking in the climbing world. keep it up!

  5. Gif says:

    Awesome episode Chris and Hayden. Post part 2!!

  6. Dude that was AWESOME! I have been spreading the good word for you. Can I be your friend? At least on Facebook? And do you have dirty socks i could of yours???

    DG

  7. Brian says:

    PS–Loved the “being used like a slippery knee bar” image in the introduction!

  8. Brian says:

    This episode sets a new high bar. Better than anything I’ve read or heard around the campfire regarding the Cerro Torre controversy. If the naysayers took the time to listen to Kennedy, I’d wager the majority of them might reconsider their vitriol and ire. Really good questions and insight from Chris as well. Looking forward to the second part.

  9. rob duncan says:

    Hayden is a well spoken young man. Good interesting interview. Crazy, I hadn’t heard about Carlyle either- so sad her tragedy was lost in the shuffle. http://www.alpineclubofcanada.ca/news/carlyle_norman.html

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