On Episode 143 of the Enormocast, Andrew Bisharat, Steve Dilk, and I sit down with a bottle of whiskey and look back on the year and decide what notions and ideas in climbing are dead, or dying. Do Euros really suck at crack climbing the way the forums might see it? Can you really get away with posting that cliché photo again? Rapping off sport climbs, dirtbags, and more get the treatment in this cantankerous show. Oh, and the daisy chain gets clipped to the whipping post once again. Don’t get too bent if we call you out on your bullshit with our bullshit. Its all for fun…and to maybe save your life.
Thoughts from Semi-rad on the Sprinter and the Dirtbag.
Rock and Ice’s Take on D-Chains.
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I still think it sucks when people tick sends and doesn´t mention pre placed gear.. “Pink Point” is a much needed term.
Agreed!
As a newer climber I’ve always feel a little embarrassed about lowering off sport climbs, as though if I were a “true” climber I’d just rap off. You’ve convinced me that my longevity is worth more than that of a couple rap rings. I’ll lower without shame now (and maybe get a friend to show me how to replace quicklinks). And thanks for a great episode as always–this was one of my favorites so far!
Well… you may have finally shamed me into giving up my PAS (squirms… “daisy chain”) at this point the thing is more of a security blanket and there’s gonna be some mighty big tears in realizing that it’s just time to let it go…
There will be a moment very soon where you’re going to really wish you still had it. Feel free to shake your fist at the heavens and scream, “Damn you, Kalous!!!”
Uh, I do that pretty much every day anyways. But thanks.
ha! So does my girlfriend.
I’m ashamed to admit that not only have I worn a daisy chain while cragging, but I also perfomed the “between the legs” crotch-floss to get it out of the way. Thankfully, with the unrepentant shaming of the Enormocast, I have managed to get past my daisy addiction and utilized better methods for staying secured to the ancors. Every day is a struggle but so far I’ve managed to keep the offending cordage at the bottom of the gear box where it belongs until I get on that sick A2 pitch. Here’s to a better future for us all.
Haha. We’ve all been gumbies. Some of us still are.
One exception to the rule of not rapping sport anchors — non-overhung sport routes on sharp granite, such as the black hills of south dakota. not rapping in those areas is a recipe for a short rope lifespan, even a core shot.
Good, informed decisions need to be made no matter what. But if I might ask, how are these routes safe to toprope or take whippers on, and not safe to lower from? It seems like if they are that exceptionally sharp, then a rope touching an edge at the elongation of a fall would be more likely to shred than in a lowering situation.
Could be numero uno. Tony Yaniro. I believe.
This is class. Best one in a while, I reckon! And cheers for coming to the defense of British Trad, Chris. Tell Bisharat to come up to Cloggy in Wales and call it bouldering…! 😉
Ha. AB wouldn’t even survive the weather, let alone the climbing!