Episode 63: Dr. Jared Vagy- The Climbing Doctor is in.

cover-photoOn Episode 63 of the Enormocast, I sit down in the Mobile Studio (this time, actually mobilized to Lander, WY) for some SCIENCE! Dr. Jared Vagy is a Doctor of Physical Therapy and an orthopedic specialist with a whole bunch of other letters after his name, and he has studied climbing injury prevention like nobody before him. Dr. Vagy’s mission in life is to put surgeons out of business by preventing injury before it occurs, or helping you rehab and go the alternative route to ease the pain without the knife. From dirtbag to pro, we all have trouble taking the time to warmup, stretch, and do strength-training off the wall, so Jared has put together the simplest methods possible to keep us out of injury depression: 5 minutes and a rubber band is all it takes. Listen and stop the pain!

Check out the Good Doctor at theclimbingdoctor.com and buy his book.

 

Episode 62: Angie Payne- Type A for Angela.

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Angie, age 10, preparing to attempt a particularly dangerous highball.

On Episode 62 of the Enormocast, dedicated boulderer Angie Payne is lured into the sweltering Mobile Studio for a deep talk about her inner workings. Angie candidly tells us about her struggles with perfectitude, expectations, and the midwest mindset. Climbing Vwhatever did not come easy to the former Cinci golden girl. Angie Payne took the road less traveled, and that continues to make all the difference.

Angie’s Website

 

 

Episode 61: Don McGrath and the Vertical Mind

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The two most important books in the Mobile Studio.

On Episode 61 of the Enormocast, I roll the mobile studio to the Northern Corner of the Bromuda Triangle for a sit down with author Don McGrath about his book, Vertical Mind. Along with Jeff Elison, Don wrote Vertical Mind about how to train the mind to work with the body in climbing, rather than, as it often does, turn us into whimpering, scared little weasels. Don reveals that even in a simple day at Rifle, I had exhibited embarrassingly little will over my own mind and am in need of some serious reprogramming. So come along for this ride into your inner space, and maybe find some tricks for taming those fears that you didn’t even know you had.

Vertical Mind the book.

Don’s Training Blog: Master Rock Climber

50 Athletes Over 50