Episode 141: Sam Lightner Jr. – Heavy Green.

On Episode 141, my friend and climbing advocate, Sam Lightner, returns for his sophomore appearance on the Enormocast after joining us way back on Episode 9.  Sam just recently published a book, Heavy Green, about a battle in the Vietnam War that involved a climbing twist as the NVA were faced with a climbing crux for a daring attack. Apropos, since Sam’s interest and admiration for Southeast Asia has been a decades long pursuit. We also talk climbing opportunities in Laos, the current scene in Thailand, and bolts. Sam’s been on the front line of bolting and climbing conservation for years, and knows the difference between a bomber bolt and rusty death-bomb.

Sam on his route, Lord of the Thais.

Samlightnerjr.com

Info on Lima Site 85 on Phou Pha Thi.

Episode 124: Boone Speed – Climbing Creative.

On Episode 124 of the Enormcast, I sit down with sport climbing legend, Boone Speed. Like the Royal We here at the Enormocast, Boone came into climbing on the very cusp of the sport climbing revolution, but he quickly found himself in an overly steep cave in American Fork, Utah bolting what would become the hardest routes of his era. While other places more steeped in tradition were arguing over tactics, bolts, and more, Boone and his cohort were just figuring it out on their own, and they eventually turned a couple of formerly scrappy cliffs into destinations that endure to this day. Not happy with just being a ground breaking sport climber, Boone also spearheaded bouldering in Utah and was a founder of Pusher, the first modern climbing hold company. Wherever he went, Boone brought creativity and individual thinking, and we are now living with his legacy.

Boone’s Photography Website

Some Classic Boone Speed Footage

 

Episode 117: Heather Weidner – The Life of Try.

heather-collageOn Episode 117, I sit down in a La Quinta Inn in Rifle, Colorado (the town, not the climbing area) with Heather Weidner. Heather and I nerd out on the process it took for her to do the first female ascent of China Doll (5.14R) sans bolts. Then we go deeper. After sending the multi-year mega-project that was China Doll, instead of lasting elation, Heather felt let-down and self-loathing. Heather had given up being a veterinarian to become a professional climber, and as she finally had space to reflect on that choice and her life before climbing, she’s had to reckon with sad memories and troubled times from the past. Climbing, though, still gives her the outlet she needs to be happy and move forward. Onward and upward, Heather hopes to graduate to “For-Lifer” and always find solace in climbing.

Heather is a rare pro that keeps her blog relatively up-to-date! 

Life in Reverse