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Apple PodcastsOn the Episode 267 of the Enormocast, I sit down with alpinist and Exum guide, Mike Gardner. Mike was born to the mountains and a life in guiding with early summers in the Tetons and tagging along on expeditions with his father, George Gardner. But when George was killed in a climbing accident when Mike was 16 years old, Mike’s view of climbing was decidedly shattered. He found therapy in free-skiing for some time and being a “lawless” teenager, but he finally returned to climbing and guiding with encouragement from the wise guides of Exum. In the last few years, Mike and a crew of like-minded and young Alaska climbers have been getting serious about fast and light approaches to big objectives. With a comradery based on joy and having “fun”, they have been blazing up routes like the Slovak Direct in Denali in record times and ideal style.
Since the recording of this interview, Mike fell to his death on the East Face of Jannu in Nepal on October 7th, 2024. Sadly, this interview has turned from joyful discourse between climbers to a tribute to a great man and awesome alpinist. My condolences to Mike’s friends, family, and those that looked up to Michael Gardner for inspiration, though that admiration should never die.
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