Enormocast 263: Steve House – The Art of Alpinism

Photos clockwise: House, M. Thurk, M. Thurk, House

On Episode 263 of the Enormocast, I sit down for a long overdue conversation with one of the greatest alpinists of all time, Steve House. Steve house spent 20 years riding the cutting edge of alpinism. His ascents of K7, The Rupal Face, and the Slovak Direct, among many more, represented a sea change in the world of highly technical big mountain climbing. But all that time strung out to the max took its toll, and finally an accident on Mount Temple in the Canadian Rockies signaled the beginning of the end for Steve’s climbing aspirations. Steve cowrote the lauded book Training for the New Alpinism and now heads Uphill Athlete and coaches aspiring mountaineers the world over. He is also a dad and husband. After all these years on the edge, Steve put the work in daily to keep life simple, free, and filled with love.

9 Replies to “Enormocast 263: Steve House – The Art of Alpinism”

  1. Excellent man! What a fascinating guy. I appreciate that Steve gave you props for the important work doing these interviews of climbers for the world to hear. Thank you Chris. Don’t stop.

  2. I realized, and correct me if I’m wrong (again), your question was “Do you want HIM back”.. referring to the younger version of himself. Good stuff..

  3. Really great.. As a 61 yr old with plenty of stories and associated scar tissue, it really hit home. The process of coming to terms with being an aging athlete, and evolving into the next phase of life… Your question.. “Do you want it back?” was one of the best timed questions I’ve ever heard in an interview. You could feel the emotion in his pause, reflection, and his answer. I bet much of your audience went through the same emotions.

    1. You, of course, know that I am juts making this shit up as I go, but in the edit, I, too, was like “nailed it” when that last question landed! Thanks for the kind not and listening!

  4. This interview has been one of the absolute best of the Enormocast. Steve is an incredible inspiration and this conversation is more than moving and resonant.

      1. When adults go into the mountains, they understand that climbing involves risk. Its literally why we do it as opposed to say, golf. The challenge is in the risk. A person can think they skirt the risk by being ultra safe, wearing the right gear, or hiring a guide. They are fools to believe that. I know that even a sport climbing day can result in death or life-altering injury. I accept that reality and all climbers, even guided climbers, should accept that going climbing never guarantees that you will return – even if you are guided or that “ultra-safe” climber that never makes a mistake. I can only hope that if I do die in the mountains, no-one will presume to speak for me or use my name to troll in a forum comment.

        Accident report on Carroll Robinson’s accident
        http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13199604202/Falling-Rock-Poor-Position-Colorado-Ouray-Dexter-Creek-Slabs

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